Prada Redefines Femininity With a Poetic Toughness All Her Own

When Miuccia Prada set out to design the spring collection she had contrast in mind. "Toughness and the poetic part," she told reporters backstage. "I tried to mix them together, because this is mainly what women have to deal with in reality. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream."

The toughness came with thick, unyielding fabrics that at times reminded us of Yohji Yamamoto's sculptural silhouettes. The fabric acted as armor, shielding all feminine curves. There was a sportiness to the shapes that made the models seem like tomboys. Choppy hair and barely there blush achieved the same effect.

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The lineup wasn't all fists and punches, though. Flowers were everywhere, acting as easy references to the poetry Prada mentioned. Seemingly sprayed-on, off-center and sometimes-fading, the blossoms didn't feel joyous. They felt somber - as if they were fighting to be heard from under the armor.

Most of the flowers were also designed in a child-like way. Simple stems and petals floating above the garments. As a result, the two elements - toughness and poetry - didn't always walk hand in hand.

When seen in a mini, the stems went from somber to sexy. Bursts of red helped lighten the mood. So did tween-inspired booties encrusted in shiny gold and pop-art flowers.

Again, it was the designer playing with us. Nothing is black and white.

She said that elements of the collection addressed that which is forbidden. Is it forbidden to be tough? Or is it forbidden to be poetic? Sometimes it seems like both. And that's what Prada's saying.