Emporio Armani's Boy-Meets-Girl Appeal

When the first model stepped out in an oversize Prince of Wales check blazer and matching shorts, it seemed like the Emporio Armani spring collection would be a classic interpretation of menswear, as is so often the case with the 78-year-old designer. But it only took a few minutes to realize that there was a soft sexiness to this collection that isn't always present in the diffusion line.

The jackets were soon thrown over the shoulder to reveal slinky colorblocked blouses that were anything but boyish. Low-slung minis offered a glimpse of the waist and legs. And the multi-tone wide belts and supersize carryalls will surely become staples in young women's wardrobes come April and May.

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But it wasn't just staples. The designer played with proportions by layering asymmetrical blouses and hems. The effect was playful yet sophisticated - a middle ground that could only be achieved with sharp tailoring.

The classic trousers felt a bit staid compared to the artfully layered pieces, and we weren't huge fans of the bows at the waist. But it didn't matter. There were so many strong options the bows became an afterthought - and that was a good thing.