Valentino Ushers in a New Era of Minimalism

When Valentino was at the helm of his own empire, he painted his collections with broad, bright strokes of fire-engine red. But designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli who were put in charge in 2008 when the designer retired, have woven a different tale. This story is based on subtle but impeccable craftsmanship with tiny strokes like the ones in Seurat's pointilist paintings. A light hand but a forceful message.

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This time around, Chiuri and Piccioli focused on a midnight blue, a shade that also appeared in Armani's sunset-inspired collection. Soft chiffon, pleats and satin were powerful but pretty. They played with sheerness and proportions discreetly. Yet it was often the patterns and layers that made an impact. Dusty-pink embroidered satin coats and capes over chiffon columns. Or that incredibly lush navy plissé.

Red made an appearance towards the end. But it was almost an afterthought. The mood was quiet, not loud. And that's what we loved.